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My Baby!
Bringing home your new puppy: Well in advance, you will want
to buy the nessesary supplies. DISHES made out of non-tip plastic, stainless
steel, or heavy crockery bowls are good choices. I recommend the crockery
for most Aussies as some like to play with their water bowls, and may scrape
and pounce at them. This deters it. A large to medium bowl is the best for
an Aussie.
Being inquisitive and intelligent, you will need to provide TOYS
for your puppy. You should offer a varied selection, as Aussies invariably
find a favorite. You will want to have a good stock of twenty or so toys,
but only let your puppy have five at a time, and rotate them each week to
avoid boredom. You will want to give them a HARD TOY, which may be a hard
rubber ball, a nylon chew-toy, a plastic-soccer-type ball for dogs, or a
chew toy such as rawhide. Many people say that rawhides can be dangerous,
but just about anything can be dangerous at some point, and if you teach
your dog to chew rawhides, they wont need too much dental attention. You
should also have soft, CHEWABLE TOYS, Aussies almost always love their own
little stuffed bear, or other animal. I also use old socks, and always have
knot tied in them so that they can distinguish them from your own socks.
You should definitely have an ACTION TOY, such as a squeaky, a rope toy,
a tug-of war toy, or other kind.
You will need to get a good COLLAR and LEASH.
The collar should be an adjustable one that ranges from about 10" to 20"
which is the average growth range for an aussie pup to adult. Be sure that
it is a clip, and not a buckle collar so that you can release the COLLAR
quickly should it be caught on something. Also you will need a lead. There
are many types and I have found there to be three useful sizes, and I have
them all. A belt-type leash, which has a hard plastic containment and a belt
that can extend and contract is great for walks. They usually come in 16
ft and 28 feet. A three-foot leather lead makes a good walking LEASH and
is the standard for obedience competitors. A six-foot is the standard for
any use, but if you get the two above, you will quickly find that this type
becomes obsolete.
You should fence off an area of your yard, as a KENNEL,
if it has a pool or other dangerous thing in it you wouldn't want a four
year old to be near. Your entire yard should be fenced, but a puppy should
have a smaller area that he learns is his own. Temporary wire fencing and
stakes makes a good boundary. Be sure there is a good area of shade for the
pup. This area should be the designated area in which the puppy is encouraged to eliminate himself. In the house, you will want a safe place that can be separated
from the rest of the house with a door or portable baby GATE. Your puppy
will probably have a few accidents and you'll want the area he does it on
to be okay with you. An indoor KENNEL may give your puppy a sense of its
own place.
Find out from the breeder, or home you are getting the puppy from,
what they feed so you can buy the same FOOD. If it is high in protein and
the pup is younger than three months old, you will want to wean them off
of it or it can cause a painful lameness, associated with too much protein
during growing.
A CRATE makes a delightful addition to your home. While many
people see it as a cage, the puppy soon comes to see it as his own place
to get away from it all. Until he is HOUSE BROKEN, it would be of help to
keep him here at night because they do not like to go to the bathroom in
their own place. You should keep a BED or sample of carpet in this crate.
When deciding which size to get, a medium to large is the best choice. Also,
a BED with cedar filling, or a bean-bag type is appreciated. This one should
be laid out in the home somewhere out-of-the way.
You will probably want
to get the SHAMPOO and BRUSHES now, too, so they are on hand when your puppy
discovers the joys of mud. You should definitely puppy proof your home. Put
house plants out of reach, Tape cords to base boards, or behind furniture.
Don't leave cigarettes in ashtrays or in their boxes. Keep objects such as
pills,small toys, jacks, marbles, pins, pencils, bones, glass, or wood out
of puppy reach. Clear books and magazines, empty trash, keep the toilet lid
down, put the kitty-litter out of the way of your little tyke. Don't leave
shoes or socks out, household cleaners should be secure. In the garage,
anti-freeze, weed killers, insect and rodent poisons should be put out of
reach. Remove poisonous plants and baits in the yard, as well as garden edging
as it is sharp.
The first night away from his dam will be difficult. You
should at all costs stay with him during the night. It helps imprint them
on you and he will feel much more comforted. You may choose to sleep on the
couch in the puppy-area, or put your pup in a crate next to your bed. Expect
to get little sound sleep for a week. The first time out to his play yard,
should be monitored to see if there are still unsafe spots. You might want
to put his crate out there for comfort and shade.
Socializing and Training your puppy: I think House training should
be tackled first, because I bet that's on your mind. I suggest buying a dog
door and showing your puppy how to use it by leading him in and out with
food, because they house train very quickly on their own if they don't have
to soil the house. Keep a schedule and you should have no problems. Take
your puppy out as soon as he wakes up, after eating and drinking, and after
play. Take him out first thing in the morning and last thing at night. This
will help establish good habits for him.
You might like to train them to
urinate when you use a command such as "potty." This helps on extended trips
or if you are in a hurry. Always praise him when he has finished his business.
Do not punish your pup should he make a mistake, regard your puppy as a baby
soiling his diaper. If your puppy sniffs, turns in circles, beginning to
squat, take him outdoors, he is about to urinate.
Keep in mind that all dogs
go through certain stages in their youth that can affect them the rest of
their lives, so be sure to take extra care in socializing. If your puppy
reacts unfavorable to a situation it is imperative that you not coddle him
or pet him. This only reinforces his fear. If he should react adversely,
act like you expect otherwise, and he is going to do it or else. An example
of this is with my own puppy. We took him to a fourth of July parade and
at the end, there were people shooting guns, I just stood there and when
the guns went off, so did my dog. When friends began to coddle him and cover
his ears, he was afraid of the gun shots. Just act like there is nothing
to be afraid of, adopt a "I'm sick of it" attitude here or you will have
an extremely sensitive Aussie.
At all times in his life take your Aussie
everywhere. Try to have him ride in the car all day while you do errands.
Take him to parades, on a walk on a busy street, to an elementary school,
outside a supermarket, or anywhere else where he will receive lots of stimuli.
Enrolling him in puppy kindergarten helps him understand what you want and
how to deal with other dogs. This helps socialization as well as helps you
two establish firm roles. You must always be dominant because sometimes Aussies
grow up confused and may become aggressive if not shown their place in life.
Frequently wrestle with your dog, but always roll him on your back, play
tug-of-war, but always win. Occasionally take away his food bowl while he
is eating. Take him away from something interesting and do not allow him
the object. This will help you get him to respond to you, and you will have
a solid, friendly relationship that will save you agony down the line.
The
easiest way to leash train a puppy is to put on the collar and lead an go
for a long walk. He may balk and buck at first, but will settle down with
all the new stimuli, and it should help you in the future. You can train
your puppy a few easy tricks from three months on, but do not expect him
to heel and be totally reliable. Serious training starts from a year to two
years, depending on the personality of your dog. You should never overwork
your puppy, and do not overlook the importance of enjoying his puppyhood. |
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